It is just one of those wines, Beaujolais, you love it or hate it. It's a gut feeling. To those of us who have loathed it, the attachment to Gamay shown by titans such as Jancis Robinson, Hugh Johnson and Micheal Broadbent, to name but a few, seems farcical and baffling. Something of a fondness conjured by subjectivity, playing a sentimental chord for their friends of the Beaujolais.