[Hey there folks, we are having some issues with Empty on Wordpress, so just temporarily I will get this up here - Rob]
It’s been a long time since I’ve written in a way reminiscent of my old prolific empty self. There are a million excuses I could make as to why, but, very simply it boils down to one factor; passion. I have been working in ‘wine’ retail for quite a while now and if there is one thing I am certain of it is that there is a negative correlation between the amount of £6 wine one sells and your passion for wine. Thankfully, I am finding, there is a two step remedy; acceptance and focusing on the good wine in life. This leads me to writing this post; I have been really complacent with this passion of mine and I think it’s about time I start writing about it again.
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@Rob_Gilmour has been writing for Empty for too long to mention, he is currently working in wine in Edinburgh where he runs @Wine_Edinburgh and somehow has found time to be Vice-President of the @IWSScotland. Being a balanced multifaceted individual Rob's only interest in not wine, he is also interested in wine education as well having passed with distinction his WSET L3. If you'd like to contact him email: emptyglassie@gmail.com
I’ve been sitting trying to think about how I’d get the ball rolling again. First I thought I would write an autobiography for my vinous adventures of the last year and a bit, however, after my word count had gotten a little out of control, and as sure as I am you’ve all been craving some Rob, those heights may have been a little too much too soon.
So, here it is. What I think to be a better idea (And hey, if you’re reading it must have been the best idea I’ve had so far); What’s on my wine rack just now. Hopefully it’ll give a better insight into how my palate and view of wine has evolved since I was last writing here. So, in no particular order, here’s the contents of my merry little wine rack.
1 ‘Monsters, Monsters, Attack’ 2012, Riesling by Some Young Punks
When I was back in Ireland, Curious Wines had hold of this lot and due to my student budgets and the successive failures of my other-Empty-half, Mr Toby Ink, and myself to co-ordinate buying a case together it took me getting over to Edinburgh to try any of the Some Young Punks wines. At first, I was wildly disappointed, I felt the wines just didn’t carry through and missed out on that intoxicating epiphany that occurs first smelling and tasting an Aussie wine. Then, it hit me, there is a lot going on, just subtly. Like so many European styles, it doesn’t shout, it talks to you. I’ll still admit I think the ’13 of the same bottling is a million miles ahead of the ’12 right now in terms of drinkablity, yet, I can’t help but feel tasting the ’12 that it’s a sleeper wine. I suppose we’ll see.
2 ‘Passion has Red Lips’ 2012, Shiraz/Cabernet by Some Young Punks
You’ll have guessed, right? I got caught up in what SYP are doing. The Blends change yearly to get the best expression. 2012 is 50/50 while the 13 is around 75 Shiraz, the styles are so different and still both understated, a little less so in the ’13. What they are doing that’s changing the results so much is avoiding new oak, and working on getting their picking times correct. Jen Gardner one of the ‘Punks’ has a PhD dealing with Yeast and it seems she holds the idea of working with indigenous yeast in high regard. If anything, I am glad to taste more wines like this; that is, ones looking to show off where they are form and not where their oak and Yeast have been imported from. I am passed tasting the same wine a million times with the only seismic difference being the bottle, even if I think its super drinkable.
Also on SYP, more good wines with polemical labels can only be a good thing.
3 ‘The Stump Jump Sticky’ 2010, Everything with a Dash of Chester by d’Arenberg
Constants. We all crave them in life, and here is the first of one you’ll get in this. I still really dig d’Arenberg. The Stump Jump range is their excellently priced, simple and wholesome range, and for the cheapies that every wine rack must contain they are and should be a first port of call. The Sticky is made of Botrytis Riesling, Chardonnay Semillion and Pinot Gris, so really just whatever was lying around and rotten. It’s acidity is a little lacking but it packs one hell of a lot of flavour and for the £7 odd that it costs, I am happy to have a bottle lying around the house.
4 ‘Bouzeron’ 2009, AP Bouzeron, Aligoté Doré by A & P Villaine
A wine in it’s prime, with the pedigree of Villaine, the owner of Domaine Romani Conti, what could be better? I’d gotten quite excited by the arrival of this in my own company and picked up a bottle as soon as I could. Aligoté has a pretty dire reputation, and it seems Villaine is totally at ease with that as he understands why it has; it’s been made really badly. Obviously, Villaine is out to change that and has been instrumental in getting the appellation of Bouzeron recognised, and for good reason too. His wine is excellent, showing off a much more delicate and less assertive expression of Burgundy. The only question is why am I clinging onto a bottle of the ’09 when Aligoté is best drank young. Simple, I have no idea what happens next, does it just die off? With the quality of the wine I just can’t see that happening, but it very well could do. Expect a bottle of the newer 2011 Vintage to join the ranks of the rack soon.
5 ‘Yering Station Chardonnay’ 2010, Chardonnay By Yering
There’s oak. Go to hell if you hate oak. Doubly so if you hate oaky Chardonnay. This is big and unapologetic, rich and creamy; and I fucking love it. It went on bin end, and I bought some. It has this wonderful olive flavour and smell that that feels as if someone just made an excellent Chardonnay and marinated some olives in it and by some freak accident it synthesised perfectly. Man, I love Australian Chardonnay, it is the wine worlds ‘fuck you‘ to the watery ‘Italian’ ‘Pinot Grigio’ from a plastic bottle brigade. Wychwood Brewery’s phrase ‘Afraid you might taste something, lagerboy’ nails my feelings on this.
6 ‘Felsenberg GG’ 2010, Riesling by Donnhoff
Another bin end from the same sale. I know, oddest bin end sale ever. Another, constant for you too, I STILL LOVE RIESLING. I got tasting this some time ago after it had been open a few days and was super impressed. Reviews and conversations have lead me to believe it’s a bit of a live-fast-die-young wine, with a lot of folk saying it’s already peaking and not one for the cellar. From my tasting I would say that’s a slight exaggeration, yet, this just simply means that I have an excuse to open some excellent wine sometime soon. Can’t wait.
7 ‘Museum Release, Marsanne’ 2007, Marsanne by Tahbilk
I have a really soft spot for the aromatics that Rhone Valley white grapes can carry. It’s fixating; clean cut, fresh, floral and always telling you there is more to come, just pop a bottle away. These wines really, really catch me up, which is why I am down to my last bottle of so many. I’m so convinced that if I lay my eyes on it I’ll drink it, I’ve wrapped it up in black paper and am ardently pretending it’s not there. Rest assured writing this section of the post has not helped my denial.
8 ‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese’ 2003 Riesling Auslese, by Joh. Jos. Prum
Riesling is great. Even better when your partner likes it too and allows you to splurge, this was bought pretty soon after we arrived in Scotland and was a total impulse buy. Problem is I’ve not been let open it yet. I do have a theory that Zara has formed an attachment with it and that it now may never be drank. This theory was only given foundations when I arrived home a little far on with a pal and cracked open some wine. Asked in the morning what we drank I jokingly said the Auslese to a very unamused and almost, I’d say, aggressive reaction. Thankfully, it was a joke. Fear not though, I will persevere.
9 & 10 ‘Brouilly’ Gamay 2011 and ’12 by Marcel Joubert et Fils
Old Vines. Beaujolais Cru. Good winemaker. Traditional wine making. Slightly austere. Loves food. Small lots of varying quality and style. It’s quirky and not to everyone’s taste. At a tasting some time ago Alvaro Palacios said about his wines, that he didn’t expect everyone to like them, that if he did that he would have made a bad wine. That stuck with me. Good wine should provoke opinions and they should probably not all be positive, without that discourse we’d have a really boring wine world. Rolland would make the wine, Parker would review it, and we’d be charged a premium. Beaujolais’ Crus are something that I have really warmed to. There is so much out there, the good just needs picked apart from the poor examples.
11 ‘Vina Arana, Rioja Reserva’ 2005 by La Rioja Alta, S.A.
I suppose it’s at this point that I put my hands up and say my red wine palate could probably do with some broadening. I still dig good vintages that haven’t over ripened the fruit. 2005 in Rioja ticks this box of me; just a little more understated than the 2004 but every bit as captivating for me, if you like big fleshy wines, while you’ll still enjoy the ’05, I’d say stick with the ’04. La Rioja Alta, S.A. are one of those dusty old relics of the wine world that I really enjoy having around. I can’t help it. I don’t really want to ‘help’ this ‘problem’ either, mind you.
12 ‘Adelaide Hills Shiraz’ 2006 by Petaluma
I am also still hunting for any incarnations of Aussie ’04, ’05, ’06 Shiraz. This one cropped up after a Christmas party where this was one of two wines on offer. The remaining wines were put aside for staff that were interested. I walked away with 3 bottles. One I gave to a customer, one I drank with a friend at the end of a very long night. Which leaves me one lonely soldier lying proudly on the wine rack, I’ll keep this guy for a number of years yet.
13 & 14 ‘Kester Shiraz’ 2005 Hunter Valley Shiraz, by Keith Tulloch Wines
THIS IS THE DOGS BOLLOX. I have transferred stock around the company like a monkey trying to please Harry Harlow. Keith Tulloch studied in the Rhone and has brought something interesting back to the table with his Hunter Valley project. While it’s easy to say it’s just a French wine in Australia, I feel that would be an injustice to these wines, they retain every ounce of power that Australia has made her reputation for Shiraz on. This is a very Australian wine. What’s different? I am still trying to work it out, this wine looks set to keep the cogs turning over for quite some time. At any rate, these are, again, for storing away. I love old Aussie Shiraz, naw, Empty loves old Aussie Shiraz.
So there you are, my wine rack, my palate, and the devil knocking at the door of my self restraint. Hopefully, this is me back in the Empty saddle. We’ll see soon I suppose.
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