A Stickie Situation....

In the wake of Wine Australia, I have been rather predictably on a bit of an Aussie trip. Cabernet being the main offender for the moment. However, it would be a blatant lie to insinuate that this is something rather new for me. Last year, maybe that was the case, but now, I am the right-proper Aussie pusher. So in the interest of critical thought, I decided I'd have a go at something a little different. The "Stickies". No, not those of the northern variety; I am, mind you, rather gangly and the only possible outcome ensuing such a feat would be the repeated hurting of myself. Fearing for myself as I always do,  I felt happening upon a safer plan of action the better option. Thus, the Australian dessert wines, which just so happen to also be called "Stickies". These little buggers are unpopular by the very nature of their existence, they are after all dessert wines. Which shouldn't in our ideal world matter, it is after all just another style. Yet the game is as always played through the  eyes of the consumer, and guess what, we are a rather prejudice aulde bunch. Like to believe it or not. 

So, why am I banging on about prejudices dividing us all and ruining our ability to perceive what is sitting in front of us? Simple, prejudices work both ways; during both master classes, one of Australia's First Family's, De Bortoli, let the side down, awfully, and yet despite this, was showered with abundant praise. The result? There where two slots for excellent wines, which their were and are many of, wasted in the mere desire to flash some names about. And of course, the name on everyone's lips? The Noble One. Which, was put simply saved by the food pairing, alone, the wine was out gunned and out classed in every conceivable way. It was by no means the great wine that it is built up to be. 

Yet, thankfully, I feel that De Bortoli, may in fact just be the one of the exceptions that proves the rule; the Aussies do actually produce some brilliant sweet wines, of extreme intensity and refreshing qualities. Here are but a very few that I feel show up the De Bortoli's Noble One.

• Yalumba's FSW8B Botrytis Viognier, 2007 -  Wrattonbully, SA (PP €17.95): Well, it has been a little while since this was opened, and opened for frivolous reasons, not withholding regret all the same. Fabulous wine, intense, marmalade flavours, well formed rounded complete, pronounced and carrying its weight brilliantly. Floral notes of honeysuckle to the wine, paradoxically given the lurking botrytis rearing it's head beneath the many layers. The only problem? The bloody name.... Try convincing anyone to drink FSW8B, it's not going to be easy is it? Regardless of this minor aesthetic failing, a fantastic wine altogether more deserving of the title of a great wine that you ought to try. (Value: 4)  

• Longview's Epitome Late Harvest Riesling, 2010 - Adelaide Hills (PP €12.99): Longview is one of the first names to change my mind on Australia with their eye opening Cabernet Sauvignon, Devils Elbow. So, how fair thee, Longview with your Riesling Stickie? Rather well the Cheaper of my three picks and, by no means is it wholly lost either. Minerality and mandori oranges form the core, with a beautifully creamy palate, good acidity to balance the whole thing out and then some hints of sweet spices on the finish that seemingly does not end. Given the price brings it directly into competition with Bortoli's first "stickie" of the day "VAT 5" it raises the very serious point, what the hell is going on with De Bortoli? (Value: 4.5)  

• Mount Horricks Cordon Cut Riesling, 2011- Clare Valley (PP >€20.00): I already reviewed this in the overview of the Master class, but felt that talking about it once was insincere and unjust. This was (king) Queen (Mount Horrocks Cordon is Queen, as it is made by Stephanie Toole, a New Zealander in the Clare Valley-  Jacqueline Stedman) . Very elegant, long and fresh complimented food amazingly. Sat happily dancing in a daze on the palate by itself. Brought out everything the pairing had to offer. and yet sitting in the glass the wine revealed a haunting depth, layered to the last. Truly an inspiring wine and something that needs to be tried again, and again. An Empty must. (Value: 5)  

 Final Thoughts on it all

The De Bortoli is a must avoid, unless you have money to burn and an amazing cremé brule chef in the house handy. In which case, I still advise you to the Mount Horrick. It cannot be said enough how beautiful this wine was. So much so, our Photographer for the day, Ruta, was enquiring post-tasting about buying some, and mumbling about how the wine had ruined all the other lovely "Stickies" she had stumbled upon throughout the day. 

My thoughts on Aussie "Stickies" is rather simple, they are worth trying.  While I clearly am already a big fan, I can't reward these guys on my own for producing such enlightening wines. This is were you guys all come in. Pick up one or two between friends for a post meal tipple and see the opinions swing in favour of these sweet wines.

Unfortunately, I do advise some caution, many of them can be mono-dimensional and just too large, and flabby. But this caution should be thrown into the wind with some sound advice from your local merchants on what is worth picking up. Throw off them aulde prejudices and see what you think for yourself. Who knows maybe my prejudices have been clouding my own vision all along.