17 January 2017

Another Empty Glass: Rugra Nivö, Nibiö 2011

In a desperate attempt to get some scribbles down, here is one of the wines I've tippled of late that has really caught my attention and brought me to care for a small flutter of words. Nivö; a Nibiö or rather Dolcetto, though not as you know it however, as this Dolcetto is Nibiö.
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@Rob_Gilmour has been writing for Empty for too long to mention, he is currently working in wine in Edinburgh. Being a balanced, multifaceted individual Rob's only interest in not wine, he is also interested in wine education as well, having passed his WSET L3 with distinction. Rob is also a deft hand at circumlocution. If you'd still like to contact him email: emptyglassie@gmail.com

Nibiö is a clone of Dolcetto that is distinguishable in the vineyard by it's red stems (And later in the winery by it's bloody marvellous juice no doubt).

Azienda Argricola Rugra Di Zucchi Luigia is, I believe you'll agree when I say this, a colossal estate of two whole hectares of vines - four hectares in total when you add in the other two hectares of land untainted by vines; Beehives make up some of the balance, for those of you interested. Luigia was an amateur beekeeper and winery until she took the leap to 'go pro' with her wine game in '97 - spoiler alert - despite her modest 10,000 bottle output, she's made a cracking choice based on the wines she's made.

These two hectares are tended organically and amongst them Luigia has something of a super parcel of, you guessed it, Nibiö. Bottled as a Monferrato Rosso, Nivö is an unrepentant eye, nose, and palate catcher.

I cracked this opened with Toby on his recent trip to Edinburgh, meant to be a quirky drop to cap a night off on, Nivö had other plans. Our noses were no sooner into the glasses than instantly our highfalutin wine nobbery was top flight once more. The room abounded with echos of elegance and subtlety all wound up in a charming confidence all not seen since John McGinn came back from injury and popped away that third goal for Hibs against Dundee United*.

However, what should you expect? Look for a pronounced, youthful and already complex nose of black cherry, floral notes, blackberries and a dusting of dark chocolate that meshes with a hint of earthiness that is creeping through in all the right proportions. On the palate you're introduced to a medium, almost light bodied wine with ripe black cherry on a mineral canvas. There's just a prefect balance here between the concentration of fruit and the structure of the wine, the mouth-feel is dry but uplifted and refreshing, you don't want the stony finish to end, and the wine obliges with an exceptional length. Another really appealing aspect here is the elegance that ties this wine together. It is never too much despite its intensity and without paying it attention you could register it as a light refreshing Pinot-lookalike with style and grip.Yet, there is so much more to this, it's own sense of self and it's a 'B side' grape variety with a purpose and the staying power to make you want another bottle in the future. It's just bloody lovely. And, if you hadn't gathered, it's quite captivating.

Disclaimer and shameless plug, I sell this wine - mainly to myself. There a limited parcel that can be purchased at WoodWinters, Wines and Whiksies for £15 (I KNOW, RIGHT!?!?!) Otherwise the fine folk of Raeburn Fine Wines will happily sort you out if you email ben@raeburnfinewines.com

*Our own confidence on this particular comparison was not impeded at all by the fact that that faithful game was yet to happen.  

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