Power & Smullen Tasting Event: Portugal

Relatively a new comer to the Irish wine market, Portugal, seems intent on blazing a trail straight to our hearts. It's now common knowledge that for quality and value, Portugal is leading the way, and  rather conveniently, I just so happened upon a Portuguese tasting hosted by Lucan Wine Merchant, Power & Smullen only a short time ago.

For all us Vino nerds, a wee bit of history won't go amiss, it also explains why all we'd ever heard about Portugal till now was about its Ports. Until 1974 Portugal had that little European  problem of Dictatorship, the law of the land set by this apparently lovely gent was intended to keep the poor poor and the rich rich. Thus the lack of a "middle class" killed the desire for table wine, cheap alcohol and cigarettes being a pillar of the regime, thankfully, as with most European Dictators he was deposed, and by '86 Portugal was a happy member of the EEC, now more commonly known as Merkelandia. However, at the time, you roll in the EU and you roll in competition laws. Which worked a treat for the grape growers who also until this point had been forced to sell their grapes at a fixed rate to the Port houses. Now the seeds of a wine industry were well and truly sown. The additional benefits of EU grants and a new fresh generation of curious "wannabe" winemakers would  serve to be the wild driving the fire to revitalise this sleepy industry.

Scroll on 26 odd years and how are things going now? Well actually quite well, here's our notes from the tasting to prove so!

• Castello D'Alba, Douro 2010 €10.95; A blend of Codgea do Larinho, Rabigato and Viosinho. And guess what it's as quirky as the grape names, with a soft medium body and texture, low acidity and almost a slight cream. Delicate floral overtures congerate as a mist around apple and pear fruits leaving an almost almond finish to linger on the palate. (Score: 86 Value: 4) RG

• Quinta da Chocapalha, White Reserva, 2007, €20.95; This first, I had no idea what was in the glass, but only I was at a Portuguese tasting I would have been screaming Mersault from the rafters  Guess what a blend of Chardonnay and two natives Viosinho and Arinto given over to 7 months in new French oak. This was intensely flavoured  a cream of warm melting butter on oak. The life of the wine was provided by acidity balancing the wine by searing through the dense mass of slightly tropical fruits. Elegant as any Burgundian white, yet with more acidity and life to it. (Score: 89 Value: 4) RG

• Quinta da Chocapalha, Vinho Tinto 2006, €13.95; I will be going against the grain on this one, but I just felt it had gone too far on it's journey. To be fair to the wine it was more than pleasantly drinkable. Touches of red fruit, chocolate, brambly raspberry coffee, all leaning to a tertiary gone wild style. This said, everyone else at the tasting seemed more than happy with it. (Score: 80 Value: 2.5) RG

• Quinta da Fafide Reserva Douro Red 2009 €14.95; A deep dark brooding blast of blackberries and autumn bush fruits, smooth and well rounded. Excellent balance on the wine meant it carried its weight incredibly well. Chocolate and floral notes danced on the nose completing the wines charm. Better still, it had only arrived that day, once this settles down again, I would be curious to try again. (Score: 88 Value: 4) RG

• Quinta do Coa, Organic Reserva, Douro Red, 2008 €17.95; Intense blackcurrant, that kept turn to something in the greater rungs of the left bank, slightly austere, dancing of an elusive cedar box element, smooth with vibrant, almost menacing black cherry's touching life into the wine. Fine tannins and a smooth delicate attire added only to the allure of the wine. An amazing wine worth more than the penny's on the label. Elegant, delicate and decadent. (Score: 91 Value: 5) RG

• Atalaya, Douro Valley, 2008 €28.95; A massive, dense, and whole wine. Black fruits blend together in a typically smooth attire, with liquorice playing on the juices following from every drop, layered and extremely complex wine, one to sit down with and pass a night on. A sublime finish that refuses to be budged by anything other than another taste. Earthy undertones balanced out by chocolate. Extremely expressive and impressive wine. (Score: 90 Value: 3.5) RG

Comments: An excellent line up, however the Quinta do Coa was certainly an outright winner, subtle and sublime, an elegant display that Portugal can match the best of the best most definitely one to get your hands on. 

Just to plug the Guys tastings, they happen on the first Tuesday of the Month but spaces are limited, get in contact with Power and Smullen (01-6100362) for more information, unfortunately I can confirm the November tasting is sold out, unsurprising given how good a night the tastings are, the above one was served with 5 or 6 lovely tapas and tutored by none other than Jean Smullen.